The small fishing village of St-Jean-de-Luz, located a few miles from the southwest corner of France along the Atlantic Ocean, has become a popular tourist and resort area in recent years. People come for its fine beaches, casino, thermal spa, to avoid the crowds at nearby Biarritz, and to experience a still thriving Basque village. Beginning with the whaling industry in the 10th century, St-Jean's still active fishing fleet makes an important contribution to France's economy with daily catches of tuna, sardine, and anchovy. With a semi-circular bay and the Pyrénées Mountains as a backdrop, plus numerous narrow streets to explore and a friendly population, St-Jean-de-Luz is a scenic seaport that should not be missed when exploring the Basque region of France.
St-Jean-de-Luz is too small to have public bus service. But, if you get tired of walking, there is taxi service.
The Office de Tourisme is at place Maréchal-Foch, a short distance from the Gare SNCF. To get there, cross boulevard du Commandant-Passicot from the Gare SNCF to avenue Verdun. Stay on it until it ends, angling to the right of the small traffic island to cross the wide boulevard Victor-Hugo to the building straight across the street.
After visiting the Office de Tourisme, veer to the right a short distance (opposite the river) where you will find the turreted Maison de Louis XIV, the building King Louis XIV lived in when he visited this city during the month of June in 1660 to be married to Marie-Thérèse of Spain. Inside it has furniture and other memorabilia from this event. Next to it is the former community center (circa 1635; now town hall) where the royal wedding reception took place. During the French Revolution, a guillotine was set up in the alley between the two buildings.
Behind these buildings is a picturesque port where various fishing boats anchor. Follow the quai around the port to the corner of quai de l'Infante and rue de l'Infante where you will find the 13th-century Maison de l'Infante where the Queen lived temporarily while King Louis kept his mistress at the Maison de Louis XIV. It is now the home of the Musée Grévin, a branch of the famed Paris wax museum. Over 60 life-size wax models in replica period costumes recreate the royal wedding and other historical events of this town.
From the museum, leave on rue de l'Infante for one block to rue Mazarin. At #2 is the handsome building Maison Granga-Baïta. In 1813 during the Napoléonic Wars, when the British army and its allies pushed the French army out of Spain and France, it was used by Wellington (British commander-in-chief) as a temporary headquarters.
From here, continue on rue de l'Infante or any side street to St-Jean's sweeping bay and pretty beach. To the left, where the beach shortly ends, you can view boats entering the the narrow inlet to the Nivelle River port. Across the river is the town of Ciboure (see text at end of tour). To the left at the far end of the bay is Fort de Socoa built in 1627. The large building in the distance, to the right along the beach, is the ...
Walking Tours of France: Introduction
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